General Home Care Information

Smoke Detectors

Smoke detectors are a simple and efficient way to protect homeowners from severe injury or even deaths which may result from fires in the home. The Housing and Urban Development (HUD) estimates that a home fire occurs every 66 seconds in the U.S. The National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) estimates that having operating smoke detectors in the home reduce the possibility of dying from a fire by 50%. However, even though an estimated 13 out of 14 homes (93%) have at least one smoke detector, an estimated 1/3 of the smoke detectors are not properly maintained or operating.

The value of smoke detectors is underestimated due to common misconceptions about their usefulness and a person's ability to detect a fire on their own. Here are some important facts about fires.

The majority of fires occur at night when the occupants of a home are sleeping.

If a fire starts in the living room of a home, occupants in a bedroom could be dead in as little as two minutes.

Most victims of fires die of smoke asphyxiation.

Smoke will NOT wake up the occupant. On the contrary, the gasses and smoke will numb the senses and cause unconsciousness. Smoke detectors are designed to give the occupants in the home the few minutes they need to escape.

It is important to properly place the smoke detectors in the home.

The minimum standard as stated in the National Fire Prevention Association's National Fire Alarm Code (NFPA 72): There should be a smoke detector on every level of the house, including the basement and outside every bedroom.

New homes require hard-wired alarms to be interconnected so that if one alarm is activated, all alarms will sound the alarm signal.

New homes require smoke detectors in every bedroom. On floors without bedrooms, smoke alarms should be installed in or near living areas, such as family rooms and living rooms.

As stated by the NFPA: "Since smoke and deadly gases rise, alarms should be placed on the ceiling at least 4 inches from the nearest wall, or high on a wall, 4-12 inches from the ceiling. This 4-inch minimum is important to keep alarms out of possible "dead air" spaces, because hot air is turbulent and may bounce so much it misses spots near a surface. Installing alarms near a window, door or fireplace is not recommended because drafts could detour smoke away from the unit. In rooms where the ceiling has an extremely high point, such as in vaulted ceilings, mount the alarm at or near the ceiling's highest point."

If you sleep with your bedroom doors closed, it is recommended that a smoke detector be installed inside each bedroom. Alarms should also be installed in other areas of your home where people sleep.

Wired systems should not be connected to a circuit that could be turned off with a wall switch.

Plug-in systems should have a restraining device at the outlet to prevent the plug from accidentally coming loose.

Hard-wired systems should be installed by a qualified electrician.

Do not install the smoke detector near windows, doors or forced-air registers where air flow would interfere with the operation of the detector.

GFCIs are an electrical safety device developed to help prevent the shocking or possible electrocution of persons.

GFCIs are required in new homes anywhere a person may be directly grounded. These places include a garage with a concrete or earth floor, outdoors, near a sink or bathtub or laundry tub. If a person were to be in a bathtub, for instance, and grasped a hairdryer with an electrical short in it, the person could be grounded through the bathtub and the plumbing to earth. The electricity would flow directly through the person to ground, and the electrical circuit would "think" that the hair dryer was using this electricity, and the breaker would not trip, and would not stop the flow of power. A GFCI detects this flow of electricity to ground and stops the flow of power.

It is recommended that any outlet in these locations be protected by a GFCI: any outdoor receptacle, any receptacle in a garage or utility room with a concrete floor, in all bathrooms, any outlet within 6 feet of the kitchen sink., any outlet within 6 feet of any water basin.

Garage safety

Many home fires start in the garage, due to autos and lawnmowers with gas tanks, and gas fired appliances such as furnaces. If a fire does start it is desirable that the fire not spread to the main house until the occupants have had time to escape. A complete covering of the walls and ceiling of the garage that connect to the home with ½" or 5/8" sheetrock will provide this firewall. The joints must be "taped" for the firewall to be effective. Any small hole will allow hot air to flow through like a blow torch. The "mandoor" to the house should also be fire-rated to give 20 minutes of protection before burning through.

Another source of accidents is the electric drive garage door opener. It should have a "pressure switch" which will engage when it senses an obstacle in the downward motion of the door. The door should stop and reverse when an obstacle is in the path of its closing. Automatic door openers can be very powerful and can crush a child or pet. To test the pressure switch place a cardboard box under the door and observe what happens when the door contacts the box. The door should also have an electronic beam sensor at the bottom that will reverse the door if an object breaks the beam.

Ventilation: Attics, Basements and Crawl Spaces

Proper ventilation of a home, or any structure for that matter, is essential to its well-being and long life. Without proper ventilation, the structural members of a building can be destroyed in a relatively short time (2 to 5 years in severe cases). The following are some of the issues to keep in mind when evaluating your home's ventilation capabilities.

There are two fundamental benefits of an effective attic ventilation system: (1) a cooler attic in summer, and (2) a dryer attic in winter. Both benefits result in energy saving, greater homeowner comfort and higher structural integrity of the home.

The principal source of summertime attic heat is direct sunlight on the roof of the home. This is radiated heat, and even on a cloudy day, there is an appreciable amount transmitted to a roof.

This solar heat on the roof is transmitted through the roof material and, in turn, is radiated to the attic floor-or to the top surface of the ceiling insulation material. This surface becomes heated, and the attic air in contact with the underside of the roof and the top of the insulating material also becomes heated. Convection allows some circulation of the air so that more and more of the attic air is heated.

Gradually, the temperature increases until the entire attic-the roof, floor, insulation, and air-are extremely hot. In an unventilated attic, the roof sheathing may reach a temperature in excess of 160 degrees Fahrenheit (F), and the attic floor 150 degrees F or more when the outside temperature is in the 90s.

When the sun goes down, the source of heat, of course, is depleted. The roof begins to reradiate the heat from the attic to the outside air. Sometimes the heat absorbed by the structural materials, including the insulation, may not be entirely removed during the cooler night hours. The heat then builds up over a long period of hot weather. The heavier the structural material, the thicker the insulation and the amount of stored items present, the greater the amount of heat may be stored.

Intense attic heat is transmitted to the ceiling surface of the living space below. The ceiling acts as a "hot plate," not only warming the air in the rooms but radiating some of the heat to the occupants as well. This, in turn, adds to the air conditioning requirement-both in the size of the unit needed and in operating costs.

Effective attic ventilation is often more critical in newer than in older homes. Incongruous as it may seem; progress in home construction has created conditions that increase the possibility of winter moisture condensation. Modern homes are better insulated, thus easier to heat and cool. They are "tighter," thus cleaner and less drafty. They are better planned and more compact. They incorporate more labor-saving appliances. All of these factors mean more comfortable living, but they have combined to increase the quantities of water vapor within smaller spaces and have made it more difficult for the vapor to escape.

The result is a series of problems such as wet (and consequently less effective) insulation, wood decay, and peeling paint. These conditions may go unnoticed until considerable damage has been done.

Humidity primarily comes from within the house (i.e. from tubs and showers, unvented clothes dryers, humidifiers, cooking, basement and crawl spaces, etc.). It also comes from less obvious sources, such as plants, standing water in a sink and even a large number of people who may stay in the house for a prolonged period of time. The very act of breathing by a family of four can expel approximately 1/2 pint of water per hour into the atmosphere of a home. Mopping a kitchen floor of about 150 square feet can release approximately 4 ½ pints of water; washing the dinner dishes can release about 1/2 pint. A wind-blown rain can cause water to enter and evaporate into the attic area through roof leaks or poorly designed or installed ventilators.

Moisture from exhaust vents originating in the house (e.g. kitchen, bath, and laundry) should terminate to the exterior of the house. They should never terminate in the attic area due to potential for elevating the relative humidity, creating mold, compromising the insulation and, in extreme situations, causing moisture damage to the roof system and interior ceilings.|

Moisture generated in a home will only cause condensation during the winter months. This condition can be aggravated if a homeowner seals the attic vents during the winter. Vents in an attic should never be closed during cold weather. With proper insulation at the attic floor/ living space ceiling, the ventilation will have little, if any, effect on heat loss.

Another area of a house, which must breathe for its well being, is the basement and crawl space.

Lack of proper ventilation in a basement or crawl space is frequently a problem. The use of dehumidifiers during the warm months of the year is beneficial in assisting the removal of moisture from the air. Circulation of the air also helps reduce problems, assuming the volume of air being moved is consistent and sufficient.

Crawl spaces can add considerable moisture to a house. A vapor barrier of 4 or 6 mil polyethylene laid over the earth in the crawl space area with a minimum of joints (overlap joints a minimum of 24 inches) is generally recommended. To be effective, vapor barriers must be continuous. Installation of paper or foil-faced insulation between the floor joists will also retard infiltration of moisture into the house. The vapor barrier on the insulation should be placed against the heated side of the subflooring. If you use single-faced insulation, the exposed insulation should face the crawl space (fuzzy side down). Insulation with a vapor barrier facing on both sides is a good option for insulating a crawl space or basement.

In the summer months, the outside air will typically be 15 to 25 degrees warmer than the air in the crawl space. This will cause the humidity to rise in the crawl space, because warmer air has more ability to hold water than cooler air. In dryer climates, this may not be important. In coastal and northern climates, depending on the conditions in the crawl space, moisture may reach its dew point, which makes a case for ventilation. With proper ventilation, the saturating air in the crawl space will be diluted and the relative humidity controlled. If there is a dirt floor, a polyethylene vapor barrier should be installed to keep moisture from migrating out of the soil. A dirt floor should be looked upon as a large evaporator plate. The potential for condensation is remote at best in colder months, except in some coastal areas with excessive humidity. Generally, crawl spaces do not have to be ventilated in the winter, as long as there is no water penetration from other sources such as negative surface grades, which could create excessive moisture in the crawl space. Having warmer air in the crawl space is the key. Ventilating the crawl space is okay in colder months, however, the living space floors above the crawl space may be cold, uncomfortable and waste heat, even if they are insulated. For most climates, the recommendation is to open the crawl space vents in the summer and close them in the winter. If there is a basement, a window or opening should be left open into the crawl space, even if it allows some heat loss from the basement to the crawl space.

Exhaust vents (kitchen, bath, dryer, etc.) should not terminate in a basement or crawl space. They should terminate to the exterior of the structure.

A crawlspace is a shallow and uninhabitable area, usually between the soil and the first floor of the home. Crawlspaces usually provide access to the electrical, plumbing and heating, ventilation and air conditioning (HVAC) systems located below the first floor. The following general guidelines are required in new homes:

Minimum clearance between the soil and joists is 18 inches and 12 inches between the soil and beams.

Minimum ventilation, every 150 square feet of floor space, requires a one square foot ventilation opening.

Water control and management in the crawlspace is essential for maintaining a house. The most common problem associated with wet crawlspaces is that moist conditions can lead to wood destroying fungus that deteriorates exposed framing. In addition, excessive moisture is a conducive condition that can lead to infestation of wood destroying insects, such as termites. In exceptional cases, water penetration into a crawlspace can lead to the undermining of the foundation.

Controlling the surface water around a home is an important but often overlooked step in maintaining a home. Surface water in this case refers to water introduced to the soil when it rains. The water, if not properly controlled, could lead to water penetration and result in damage to the structure, interior surfaces, and homeowners' belongings. In addition, hydrostatic pressure that is created when water accumulates next to or below a foundation may cause structural damage to the foundation. The best methods for controlling the surface water are contingent upon local weather patterns, the type of soil and the type of foundation the home has. However, the simplest method to properly divert water away from the property is to use gutters and downspout systems, combined with proper surface grading around the home.

The grade or slope of the soil should be designed to direct surface water away from or around the home. Water accumulation next to the home can lead to water penetration problems such as structural damage to wood framing, interior damage to finished surfaces and damage to the homeowners' belongings. Additional problems such as hydrostatic pressure against foundation walls or surface water mixing with expansive soils next to or under a foundation can lead to cracking of the slab and foundation walls. Proper grading (in conjunction with a gutter and downspout system) is one of the easiest ways to manage surface water.

The soil around the perimeter of the home should slope away (at a minimum rate of one inch per foot for the first 6 feet) from the house to prevent rain water from accumulating next to the foundation. Soil in this case does not refer to the topsoil but the layer of soil that is impervious to water such as clay, which directs the water away from the house. Many times the topsoil is porous (as would be used for planting) and absorbs the surface water. The sub-layer of clay or similar non-porous soil prevents the water from continuing in a downward movement and directs the water laterally. If non-porous soil next to the foundation slopes toward the house, water will begin to accumulate.

The overall lot grading is also an important concern since surface water may enter from adjacent properties. Generally, if the house is located on a slope or on a lot that receives water run-off, swales are often used to direct the water around the house. Swales are shallow ditches or depressions in the landscape that capture the water run-off. Then, like a small creek, the water is directed around and away from the house.

Gutters and downspouts perform two main functions. First, they help capture and direct the roof run-off water away from the house. Second, they help protect the exterior surface and perimeter grading of the home from water damage that can result from the roof run-off water running down the side of the house or eroding the soil around the home. It is estimated that a one-inch rain fall on a typical 2000 square foot roof can produce up to 2,500 gallons of water. Not all homes need gutters and downspouts, depending on the design of the house and local weather conditions. But if the home experiences problems resulting from surface water, gutters and downspouts should definitely be a first line of defense.

Wood siding

Wood sidings come in the form of shingles, shakes, plywood, panels, boards (applied vertically and horizontally), and hardboard. The siding is generally available in cedar, spruce, firs, redwood, and hemlock, as well as pines and other soft woods. Other kinds of wood may be used in thin veneers on the exterior of the panels or plywood siding. Wood siding is prone to insect attack and water damage, so it should be closely evaluated where the wood is in close or direct contact with the soil. Areas where vegetation overgrowth has occurred are especially susceptible to deterioration and mildew/molds. Use a screwdriver to probe for suspected areas for deterioration or infestation. Areas where the soil is in contact with the wood components should be re-graded so that a reasonable amount of space is available between the bottom of the wood and the soil or graded surface.

Inspect the wood for peeling or blistering paint; warped, split or cracked shingles; delaminated plywood; dark stains; or mildew and buckled boards. These problems typically indicate water damage or deferred maintenance. The sources of the water penetration may be from open seams or improperly sealed joints in the siding and trim; separations at the outside corners; missing or damaged caulk in these areas; loose and missing pieces or sections; or rusty nails and holes.

When inspecting the siding, you should also inspect the eaves, fascias, soffits and other outside trims. Closed soffits may pull loose, or birds, squirrels and insects may be able to access this area for nesting. Faulty guttering can also cause water damage and deterioration in the soffits. Suspicious areas should be probed with an ice pick, pocketknife or screw driver blade.

Composition board siding is also known as "pressboard siding", "hardboard siding", "waferwood siding" and "inner-seal siding". All these names refer to the composite wood product made from wafers of wood, coated in resin and formed into a mat. An overlay is placed over the mat and pressed into the panels by heat and pressure and the panels are then cut into boards to make lap or panel siding. The major manufacturers of this product include Louisiana-Pacific (L-P), Georgia-Pacific and Masonite, usually identified by the manufacturer's seal on the underside of the siding board.

Wood, by its very nature, has a tendency to expand and contract. Compressing the wood during the manufacturing process has placed the wood in an unnatural state. Wood will expand if it is exposed to moisture-the compressed cells in the wood will expand and swell. Proper installation and maintenance are critical for this product to perform. Exposed edges must be sealed with a good coat of paint, and the wood must remain sealed throughout its life. If the composition board siding is improperly installed or maintained, the siding retains moisture and begins to swell, crack and rot.

Plywood has been used for quite some time as an exterior siding. Originally, it was only used on the gable ends of the residence. Since the early 1980s, it was relatively common to use plywood on most or the entire house. The most common of the plywood sidings is T1-11. It is typically fir or cedar, 7/16 inch thick, and has vertical grooves. All plywood used on the exterior should be painted or sealed to prevent delaminations. When the wall to be sided is taller than 8 inches, the plywood will have a horizontal butt joint that needs protection. A "Z" flashing should be used to protect the top edge of the lower sheet. Both of these edges should be painted before the sheets are installed.

Roofing - Asphalt

Nearly four-fifths of American homes have asphalt shingle roofs, and for good reason.

Asphalt shingles are economical and fairly easy to install and repair.

The two basic types are composition and fiberglass-base shingles.

Composition shingles are made of organic felt manufactured from wood and paper fibers. Fiberglass-base shingles are made of manmade fiberglass mat. Both kinds are soaked in asphalt, but the fiberglass base shingles are more fire-resistant than the organic ones. Asphalt shingles have mineral granules embedded in them; when you find these granules washing away, it's a sign that you need to repair or replace your shingles.

Although asphalt shingles may look like individual tabs, they are generally manufactured in 3-foot-long strips that are notched to look like smaller units. They come in a variety of weights. Generally speaking, the heavier the shingles, the longer they last.

• Strip Shingles -- these asphalt shingles are approximately three times as long as they are wide. Manufactured in both standard and metric dimensions, strip shingles are distinguished by the number of cutouts or tabs that they have. The most common type of strip shingle is the "three-tab" shingle. Different textural and lighting/shadowing effects can be achieved with strip shingles depending on the number, shape and alignment of the cutouts.
• Laminated Shingles -- these special shingles contain more than one layer of tabs to create extra thickness. They are also referred to as three-dimensional or architectural shingles because they create visual depth on a roof and impart a custom look. Laminated shingles continue to be a favorite among builders, roofing contractors and homebuyers.

The weight of a standard asphalt composition shingle before 1973 was 240 pounds per square (of coverage); modern standard shingles weigh approximately 190 pounds, depending on the manufacturer. A square is 100 square feet ( 10 feet by 10 feet).

Modern shingles are sold by the length of their warranty (i.e. 20-year, 25-year and 30-year). The differences are the weight and design of the shingles. 30-year shingles generally do not have the joints between the tabs exposed to the weather.

Obviously, there are wide variations in asphalt shingle roofs. But by and large, asphalt shingle roofs have a life expectancy of 15 to 30 years, depending on the weight of the shingles, slope of the roof, exposure to the sun, color, and weather and climate conditions.

In southern climates, such as Florida, it is not unusual for asphalt shingles to fail in 12 to 14 years. In northern climates, such as Massachusetts and New York, higher sloped roofs with an eastern and or northern exposure can last 25 years. These shingles can be expected to deteriorate as the petroleum and composition fiber base, of which the shingle matrix is constructed, begins to dry out. When this occurs, the shingles begin to curl, cup, split and lose their granules. Loss of granules between the shingle tabs is the most conclusive evidence you have for determining the condition of the shingles. This is normally the first place where failures occur. Reshingling can be done, either by applying another layer of shingles over the existing roof (as long as the existing shingles are laying reasonably flat or if there is only one layer of shingles on the roof) or by tearing off the existing roofing and applying new shingles. The concerns with two or more layers of asphalt shingles are:

Weight, which can be considerable. Standard shingles weight approximately 190 pounds per 100 square feet (SF), or approximately 2 pounds per SF. A 15 or 16 square roof with 2 layers of standard shingles will have about 6,000 lbs. of shingles. This will have more impact on shallow sloped roofs. Roof framing should be designed at 20 pounds per SF, so there is no danger of collapse, however, snow and wind loads may cause deflection. Heavy weight shingles can be 50% heavier than standard or 20-year shingles.